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If you love bathing in Japan’s beautiful hot springs, you’re not alone. Welcome to Yamanouchi Town; famous for the monkeys who’ve made a habit of taking refuge from the biting cold by basking in the region’s naturally hot waters.

Japanese Macaques – popularly known as “snow monkeys” - are indigenous to Japan. Red-faced, squat, and covered with thick tan fur, they fight, forage, and soak in Yamanouchi’s Jigokudani Monkey Park. Yamanouchi itself is located in mountainous Nagano Prefecture. More than a dozen hot springs bubble here, but Yudanaka and Shibu springs are the best known. Yudanaka can be reached by train or bus from Nagano Station in 45 minutes, offering connecting buses to Shibu that take 5 minutes. Jigokudani Monkey Park is 6 kilometers from Yudanaka Station, but once there, explore the hot springs yourself before paying your respects to the monkeys.

Yudanaka is sleepy and backpacker-oriented while Shibu retains an old-fashioned Japanese spa town feel thanks to the picturesque architecture and yukata-clad bathers strolling its narrow streets. Both Yudanaka and Shibu feature temples, restaurants, small businesses, and bars as well as many traditional ryokan inns. All the hotels in this area have public baths but the Tomi no Yu outdoor hot spring – situated on a mountain slope with clear, sweeping views of the quiet valley below – should not be missed. Its 600 yen public pool is lined with jagged rocks and graceful trees, while a 2500 yen private bath is also available by appointment (we’re sure it’s spectacular). Whichever bath you pick, time your visit for sunset.

P3170063 - Yudanaka Onsen, Japan - picture uploaded by IEatMyPigeon - tripwolf traveler

Jigokudani Monkey Park may be reached from Yudanaka or Shibu by bus, taxi, car, or Snow Monkey mini bus. Alternatively, it’s a good hour’s walk from Shibu. It is particularly beautiful during a snowfall, but a hike through its lush forestation would be beautiful any time of year.

rotate the imageP3170081 - Yudanaka Onsen, Japan - picture uploaded by IEatMyPigeon - tripwolf traveler

It’s an invigorating trek from the mouth of Jigokudani Monkey Park to the monkeys themselves, and the journey feels all the more rewarding when you first lock eyes with a shrewd-faced park dweller. They careen down the mountains, scurry up trees, plod by in groups or enjoy a ride to the large, rocky pool on their mother’s back as the hot steam swirls through the air like mist. Strikingly, the presence of the invading humans barely seems to register; it’s as if we aren’t there as they slide into the water and close their eyes with bliss.

P3170102 - Yudanaka Onsen, Japan - picture uploaded by IEatMyPigeon - tripwolf traveler
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They paddle. They doze. They pick the nits out of each others’ fur. It’s a beauty parlor where the regulars have been coming for so long, they barely need to say a word. It might be a cold winter out here, but in their bath they’re as toasty as can be. Suddenly, nothing in the world seems better than a good, hot soak and it’s back to the human springs to indulge. Monkey see, monkey do.

5 Comments

  1. locohamaNo Gravatar
    Posted July 30, 2009 at 12:51 am | Permalink

    Wonderful posts! thanks for sharing…looks great. thank I’ll try it out next winter

  2. locohamaNo Gravatar
    Posted July 30, 2009 at 12:52 am | Permalink

    Wonderful posts! thanks for sharing…looks great. I think I’ll try it out next winter (-:

  3. EvaNo Gravatar
    Posted July 30, 2009 at 10:28 am | Permalink

    Locohama, you must! It’s a wonderful trip.

  4. Dane KennedyNo Gravatar
    Posted November 24, 2009 at 8:40 pm | Permalink

    How do I make a reservation to Tomi no Yu outdoor hot spring?????

  5. IEatMyPigeonNo Gravatar
    Posted November 30, 2009 at 10:36 am | Permalink

    Hi, Dane! No reservations required; just turn up and feed your money into the appropriate machine. The machine’s buttons are in Japanese so if you need help, tell the man at the counter that you want “private” (pu-rai-betto). My advice, though, is to head to the hot spring at sunset; chances are, the 600 yen public bath will be empty.

One Trackback

  1. By JapanSoc on July 29, 2009 at 2:37 pm

    Spotlight: Yamanouchi …

    A travel spotlight on tripwolf’s blog about the hot springs and snow monkeys in Nagano’s Yamanouchi Town. …

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